GENERAL GARMENT CARE FAQs
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Many slacks made of cotton/lycra can be washed and air dried. But consider a few details first. There have been complaints of wrinkles after drying. Cotton/Spandex can be sprinkled with water and ironed while moist, with a setting just below Cotton setting. However, cotton/spandex can shrink so either buy a size larger or have them dry cleaned.
The fact that the dresses are washable and polyester helps a lot. The main problem with deodorants and the stains are the white rings that form from powder and some roll on's. On some poly and acetate fabrics, the deordorant gets ground into the fabric from friction and the stubble under the arm that acts like sand paper. Make sure that you are freshly shaven, before wearing dresses and blouses of this type, and make sure that your deodorant is perfectly dry.
As for the best type of deodorant, it's a very personal choice. Most deodorants don’t actually stop you from sweating. Antiperspirants usually do. But you may want to try some sprays or aerosols, as they leave less residue than some roll on's and powders.
How can a consumer get around this (yet still provide dry cleaner with care instructions)?
Most clothing can be cleaned by a professional without the use of care labels. However, with all the new fabrics and constantly-changing care instructions, it always helps when the dry cleaner can double check the care label.
If the label “irritates” the skin or shows through the garment, it can be removed or relocated to a less noticeable place. If there is no other choice but removal, then I suggest that the label instructions be copied into a notebook and either submitted or verbally conveyed when the garment is dropped off for cleaning. .
Worn clothing may contain collar & cuff soil, food and drink stains, perspiration, cologne and perfume...any of which can discolor fabrics and cause holes and yellow or brown stains. Yes, stains are considerably more difficult to remove if they sit in the fabric for more than 48 hours. Insects love soiled fabrics and are attracted to all of the stains listed above.
What are some items that should be dry cleaned “regularly” (even if they seem to be “clean”)?
Clothing should be cleaned, without exception, before storing for the season, even if they appear clean and were only worn for 5 minutes. This applies to all fabrics, but especially to wool clothing and sweaters.
For cleaning, always follow the instructions on the care label on a garment.
When labels like this surface, there are usually ways to get around them. In most cases, Margaret's has the skill, experience and ingenuity to properly assess the fabric, construction, embellishments and dyes to find a safe way to clean the garment. Sometimes the garment can be “spot cleaned” in the troubled areas, hence complying with the unrealistic and problematic care label.
Care labels can be limiting or misleading but, in most cases, when a label says dry clean only it means it. Of course, consumers and dry cleaners often do hand wash dry clean only clothing (professionals call hand washing, “wetcleaning”). However, many fabrics that bear a dry clean only label such as linen, cotton, and some rayon, microfiber and silk are wetcleaned successfully. Keep in mind that lighter colors respond best (limiting dye bleed and fading), and most require expert pressing and finishing to maintain the proper body and drape.
The question of which detergent to use is an often debated subject. I do not recommend some of the more popular gentle washing detergents that are commonly available. A very safe detergent is old fashion Ivory Snow Flakes. This detergent is a neutral lubricant that is gentle and about as safe as the consumer can purchase.
As a warning, not all garments are washable. Be careful in determining which items to wash, especially if the garment is multi-colored, as one color may bleed into another. If you have any concern if an item is washable I would let a professional handle it.
Assuming the garment in question is safe to hand wash the following are some basic instructions that will keep you out of most trouble.
CAUTION: Never let the garment sit in the water without being gently agitated. Only undertake hand washing when you have the time to see the process through to its conclusion.
I recommend only washing one garment at a time unless there are similar items, and then only process a few at a time.
Start with a clean tub or sink. Fill the tub with about six inches of luke warm water. Use only enough Ivory Snow flakes to develop a FEW suds when you splash the water. Once the bath is ready then put the garment in.
Wash the garment by hand in the soapy water by gently squeezing and kneading the garment being careful not to work the material too hard. Always keep the garment moving while in the water. The cleaning should only take a few minutes, then empty the tub. GENTLY squeeze out excess water, do not wring.
To rinse the item, fill the container with fresh water and rinse. Again, keep the item moving while in the water. GENTLY squeeze out excess water, do not wring. Rinse a second time if desired.
Dry the item flat on a towel. Pat the top with a second towel to accelerate the drying. Change the towel if necessary. Do not let the garment lay on a wet towel.
Good luck. Do not start your hand washing experience with your most precious items.
Club soda, considered for so many years to be a "cure all" for practically every mishap, usually just spreads out the stain and can make removal of oily stains like butter and gravy almost impossible. Club sode is NOT recommended!
If you rub a stain with a napkin dipped in water or club soda, it breaks the fibers and causes color loss (crocking). It appears to be helping, when in fact the majority of the time a very expensive piece of your clothing investment is being ruined.
It is best to blot the stain with a clean dry napkin or towel then STOP! Be very careful with a damp or wet cloth as color loss or a water ring may be the result.
We are trained stain experts and at work we have all the right tools, and agents, but at home or in a restaurant we are as powerless as you. We have preached to our customers not to attempt daring feats of stain removal because it simply ruins clothes. Our customers now announce proudly, "I left the stain alone as you taught me", and their expensive garments will live to be worn again.
The following is a partial list of factors that determine the stability of a garment to different types of care.
Was the material pre shrunk? Dry cleaning generally induces less shrinkage than machine washing.
Dye stability: some dyes are stable in one, either, or neither water or dry cleaning solvent.
Finishes: optical brighteners, sizing, shrinkage control, and other finishes can react differently depending on the cleaning method.
Embellishments: many beads, sequins, leather trim, and other embellishments can severely limit the serviceability and care of garments.
As you can see, one cannot select the care method based on the material alone and must rely heavily on the care label and past experiences.
